Atlanta Tile Flooring Methods

Article Written By: mjorgenson14

There are 2 main methods for producing tile in Atlanta that you may hear mentioned. The first is single-fired also called monocottura. Monocottura is an Italian word meaning single-fired and it refers to tile that goes through 1 firing process at very high temperatures. The second method is double-fired or Bicottura. Bicottura tile is fired at lower temperatures once to harden the body, it is then glazed and passed through the kiln a second time.

Generally moncottura rype will be denser and more durable as they are fired at hire temperatures. Bicottura is more likely to be used in decorative style, or tiles that are not rated for outdoor use.

As with the installation of any type of flooring, the sub floor preparation is a key consideration. Here are some of the acceptable sub floors for tile installation:

and#8226; Cement Backer board: Likely one of the best substrates as it ensures a level and clean surface.

and#8226; Exterior Grade Plywood: Must be clean and generally at least 5/8" thick.

and#8226; Hardwood Flooring: Must be clean, sanded and at least and#190;" thick.

and#8226; Concrete Slab: Slab should be relatively level, should not have excessive cracks, and should be checked for oil, grease or any other agent that might inhibit the adhesion of mortar.

and#8226; Vinyl/Resilient Flooring: Linoleum or vinyl must be solidly adhered to sub floor, should not be cracked, and must not be cushioned. Most resilient surfaces should be scuffed/roughened and all should be cleaned diligently prior to installing tile

and#8226; Existing Floor: An existing floor firmly adhered and cleaned using a stripper can also be used. The surface should likely be scuffed to encourage traction for the adhesive.

Often a room diagram is a good tool to use in planning how to lay out a tiling job. Laying ten tiles, end to end with spacers and measuring their overall length then dividing that number by ten gets you an accurate average tile length. You can then use that dimension on a scale drawing to layout and plan cuts. Snapping chalk lines on the floor to guide in laying the tile is also useful

Straight cuts are usually made either with a power saw, or by scoring and snapping the tile. Curved cuts can be made with tile nippers (think a big pair of nail clippers), a tile saw (cutting and snapping small sections at a time), or a carbide rod saw.

The mortar is mixed and spread on a section of the backer board. This process is sometimes called combing due to the cris-cross pattern used to aid in the adhesion. Tiles are then pushed into the mortar and leveled.

For applications in which there is 1/8" or less between tiles, you will use an unsanded grout. Larger distances between the tiles calls for a sanded grout which has a little more bulk to it and will better bridge larger gaps. When you have left less than 3/8" of space, grout is basically mixed, and wiped on. The semi-liquid grout finds the lowest point and automatically fills in the spaces between the tiles.

Once hardened the excess grout can be rinsed from the tiles. If you have greater than 3/8" of space, a grout bag (looks similar to a cake icing bag) is used and grout is injected into the spaces and then smoothed out. You will want to spray the grout with water (called damp-curing) multiple times per day for a few days to ensure a good strong grout adhesion.

If you are working with a very porous tile, you will want to seal the tile before grouting. If you do not, you may have trouble getting excess grout off as it will seep into the pores. For tiles with low absorption rates, sealing can take place after the grout has dried. Using a sponge and bucket, sealing is very similar to washing the floor and does not take a great deal of time.

About the Author

Michael is a fan of hardwood flooring in Atlanta and tile flooring in Atlanta

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